Tekstboks:  Hippocampus, behind the garden 
 and the little Hotel Church.


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A comfortable distance away from the hectic city streets of Athens, but still close to the historical monuments of the mainland lie the islands of Egina, Poros, Hydra and Spetses. By staying on one of these islands, one can find a perfect combination between a city holiday and a beach  holiday. The four islands each have their special atmosphere which can easily be experienced and combined with visits to the Greek capital. 

 

Egina

The fertile and pittoresque island of Egina (85 sq. km, pop. 11.000) sports pine forests and olive groves, vineyards and citrus plantations. The speciality of the island is pistachio nuts, said to be the best in Greece. The delectable nuts are roasted in citrus oil and are a delicacy of the highest order, sold on every street corner.

 

History

Dorian emigrants made the island of Egina an important power with a strong army and fleet, and in the 7th century BC, the island minted its own silver coins, as the first place in Europe. The highlights was the building of the Afaia temple approximately 500 BC. The city of Athens felt threatened by their successful neighbours and  lay the island under siege in 454 BC. Egina never regained its importance and was time and gain attacked by pirates. For security reasons the main city of Paleochora was moved during the 9th century AD and was not rebuilt by the sea until the 1820’s. A short time in 1828 it was the seat of the first free government until Nafplion and later Athens were chosen as capitals.

Today the inhabitants of Egina make their living from agriculture, fishing and tourism. The island has kept its beautiful nature and offer both archaeological sites and beach life.

Several workshops make good pottery for everyday use. As a recreational area for the inhabitants of the metropolis of Athens the beaches can be quite crowded during the summer weekends.

Egina town, the communication centre of the island.

Egina, the most important town (pop. 6000), has a busy and lively harbour with wooden boats and pleasure yachts. I have even seen Norwegian yachts here. Along the white-washed houses of the harbour walk one can buy the produce of the island and tourists may catch a ride in horse carriage past the many tavernas and restaurants.   

The antique harbour city, which during the golden period of the island had approximately 20000 inhabitants, lay north of the harbour of today. From the Middle Ages until the 19th century one used the antique ruins as a quarry. On the Kolona height outside town stands a lonely pillar from an Apollotemple (5th century BC).

The archeological museum situated in the ruin area displays e.g. fragments of terra cotta from the Afaia temple, a marble sphinx dating from the 6th century BC, and pottery. The museum is open Tuesday till Sunday from 8.30 – 15.00 and there is an entrance fee.

Excursions on Egina

Moni Agiou Nektariou is a relatively new monastery, lying on the road to Agia Marina. It is an important goal for pilgrims coming to honour the monk Anastasios Kefalas who died in 1920.  His balsamated body lies in the monastery.  He was canonized in 1961 and thus became the first saint of the Greek-orthodox church in the 20th century. The big monastery is rich in ornaments in wood and marble and is beautifully situated in the valley under Paleochora.

This medieval ruin, most important town of the island from the 9th century AD until 1826 lies above the road leading straight across the island to the Afaia temple. When building the new town by the coast, building material taken from Paleochora was used. Only the churches were spared and there are still over 20 of them left. Several of them have lovely fresques, e.g. Agia Episkopi, the former main church has well preserved fresques from the 17th century. Every year on Ascension Day the 15th of August, pilgrims from near and afar come to the old town.

 

The Afaia temple

The temple lies on a hill surrounded by pine trees and with a view to Kap Sounion. It is open during the summer every day between 8 – 19, the rest of the year from Tuesday to Sunday between 8.30 and 15.00. There is an entrance fee to be paid.

The temple was built from limestone approximately 500 BC i Dorian style and dedicated to Afaia, one of Zeus’ numerous daughters. After Athens attacked Egina in 454 BC the temple was overgiven as a holy place some 20 years later and it is one of the best preserved temples in Greece.

23 of the original 32 columns surrounding the main room are still standing. The inner room was divided into three surrounded by smaller columns in two stories. The sculptures on the gables   were in marble with scenes depicting the Trojan war. Most of the sculptures were taken by king Ludwig the first of Bayern and can now be seen in the Glyptotek in Munich.

From the temple area the distance is 3 km down to Agia Marina, the international holiday centre of Egina with the best beach on the island by the bay facing east. Agina Marina has never been a village and the main street down to the beach is a long array of travelling agencies, shops, bars, pubs and discoteques. There are no fishing boats in the little harbour, which is separated from the beach. Here you can find both sightseeing vessels and ferries. Short trips by bus are also arranged to the Afaia temple from here.

 

Perdika (9 km south of the town Egina) is a fishing village with beaches, many tavernas serving fish and other very good restaurants. If you are looking for a place full of life and packed with people, this is not the place. Here peace, quiet and a fresh sea breeze is the most notable feature. And note, no matter which direction you walk, you will arrive at the sea. Take your clothes off and jump in! Except for the winter the temperature is most pleasant for us Northerners.  Hot summer days seem cool due to the sea breeze. Depending on the time of year you may swim in a bay or in more open waters. I have even gone swimming amongst the fishing boats in the harbour without getting even one lump of oil either in my hair or on my swimming trunks. Absolutely lovely, if you ask me. Do you want to go for a swim, then do so !

From Egina town you can arrive in Perdika by foot, on bike, by taxi or by bus. On the way there are several good beaches. How about renting a car ? Remember that the distances are short, so there is no problem to most of what is to be seen, no matter where you start.

In Perdika we stay at the Hippocampus (tel. 61363), of course. This is an idyllic family driven hotel with boundless service and comfortable prices.

From here its only a short distance to the harbour with all the restaurants. In the garden at the back of the establishment you can sit under palm leaf trees and enjoy your simple breakfast. Or you can ask to be allowed to sit and “meditate” in the hotels own chapel. This is richly decorated with Greek-orthodox icons.

A short distance outside Perdika lies the island of Moni, which is uninhabited. Some time ago there was a camping ground on the island, something one still can see.  I am sorry to say it, but someone should take the initiative to tidy up the grounds.  (Regard on this, it doesn’t accuse Hotel Hippocampus of the cleaning up there.)  The crossing takes 10 minutes by motorboat and these go back and forth the whole day. One has to bring water and food, because there is nothing to be bought here. Talk to the owners of Hippocampus, and they will give you a packed picnic basket to take with you. Otherwise one can walk around the island and of course swim. The island is home to a number of deer and peacocks.

Happy Journey !  

 

 


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